There are numerous ways and styles of draping a saree. Each region
of India exhibits its unique way of draping this 6 yard wonder. The
modern woman has experimented and discovered various innovative and
creative styles, whereas the Indian designers have taken this eternal
ethnic beauty global.
We have already learnt about the traditional sarees of India
from different regions. Here we will be learning the different
traditional draping styles prevailing in India and the art of wearing
these beautiful and sensuous attire.
Classic Indian Drape (Traditional Way) : This is the most
common and most popular method of draping a saree also called as Nivi
style. In this style of sari draping, one end of the sari is neatly
tucked into the band of the petticoat on the waist. After wrapping the
sari cloth around the waist once more, the sari is neatly folded into
pleats, which are then tucked into the waistband of the petticoat just
below the navel. Then after wrapping it around the body one more time,
the other decorative end(or pallu) comes diagonally in front of the
torso and draped over the left shoulder. In kaccha nivi style of
draping, the pleats are passed through the legs and tucked into the
waist at the back. This allows free movement while covering the legs.
Gujarati style: Apart from Gujarat, this version of draping,
is also found in parts of Uttar Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh, Rajasthan and
Bihar. This is similar to Nivi style but the “pallu” is draped over the
right shoulder rather than left shoulder. After tucking the pleates the
loose end is taken from the back, draped across the right shoulder. It
is then spread across the chest, and the left edge is tucked in the
petticoat at the back. Sarees with eye-catching magnificent pallus are
best worn in this style
Maharashtrian style: Instead of the usual five-and-a-half
meters, the sari in this version measures 8-10 yards called Nauvari
saree. One portion of the sari is drawn up between the legs and tucked
in behind at the waist, while another portion is draped as a pallu over
the bosom. Thus it forms a kind of divided sari, allowing greater
freedom of movement. They are primarily worn by Brahmin women in
Maharashtra, Karnataka, Andhra Pradhesh.
Tamilian version: Like the Maharashtra version, the saree in
this version, too, measures eight meters. After wrapping around the
waist, the pleats are positioned along the left leg. The rest of the
sari is taken over the left shoulder, wrapped once again round the waist
and tucked on the left side. This is also called as Madisaara style of
draping.
Bengali style: The saree is worn pleatless; it is wrapped
around the waist, brought back to the right side and the pallu is thrown
over the left shoulder. The pallu is then brought up under the right
arm and once again cast over the left shoulder. The pallu has a bunch of
keys that falls over the shoulder.
Mundu Neriyathum is the signature style of Kerala. This
style compromises of a Mundu or the lower skirt piece and a Neriyathum
or the drape of the saree along with a blouse. Mundu is worn like
wearing a Dhothi and is securely wrapped at the hip. Now the Neriyathum
is draped over the blouse and tucked at the waist of the Mundu. This
mundu also called ‘Settu Mundu’ is the traditional attire.
Coorgi Style This sari draping style is typical to ladies
from the Kodagu district of Karnataka. This sari draping differs from
other styles because in this the folded pleats of the sari are formed at
the back instead of the usual front side. The pallu or decorative end
of the sari is carefully draped from the back to front over the right
shoulder. This is secured by a pin to the sari to keep it in place.
Mumtaz style This is not a traditional style but has become
iconic with the yesteryear’s Bollywood heroine Mumtaz. This is a very
innovative drape. It is a sari with no pleats and draped and tightened
around knees and thighs. Here saree is rounded twice around to give a
slim effect. It is hard to walk freely in this drap. This drape is good
for saree with heavy or embroidered borders.Wearing this style makes on
look slimmer too. This is sometimes even referred as Bollywood golden
Era style.
Check back soon for the step-by-step demonstration of each styles of draping sarees. In the meanwhile, have a glance at the traditional sarees of India.
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